Gifts from the ‘Hell-Mouth of Ireland’ #Samhain

Inside the Cave of Cats.

Today I met up with Treasa and a bunch of lovely ladies for a visit to Cruachan and Oweynagat. To say I was nervous is a bit of an understatement; not because I was meeting up with a group of people I didn’t know (daunting enough for someone like me), but because a) I’ve never been caving, and never wanted to, and b) you know, it’s a space which belongs to the Morrigan, and she’s definitely scary, in a wonderful and terrifying kind of way. But, Treasa invited me, and I trust her, and if you love Irish myth and ancient sites, you can’t not go. I’d avoided it long enough.

When I got up this morning and saw the sun was shining, I knew it was a day for facing fears.

We met for lunch first in the Percy French Hotel in Strokestown. I’m glad we did this, as it broke the ice, and was really fun, and also, it meant I could follow in my car behind someone who knows where they’re going, and hopefully not get lost. ๐Ÿ˜

First we went to the main mound at Cruachan. It’s huge! And what a view! I could hear one of our group drumming as I walked up to the top. The beat carried to me faintly on the breeze, seeming to enter my bloodstream, so that I almost didn’t know if it was my pulse or my heartbeat stirring. It kind of felt magical, and right.

Medb's Fort at Cruachan.

Medb’s Fort at Cruachan.

Here it was that Queen Medb had her great fort, and according to legend, it is from here she planned her fateful cattle raid, and it is from here that Nera chased the fairy hordes into the Otherworld one Samhain, via Oweynagat, also known as the ‘Cave of Cats’. The very cave that I, thousands of years, and Samhains, later, was about to follow him into…


There was no way I was not going in. The mouth of the cave gaped at me, and I watched in trepidation as it swallowed first Treasa, then two more of my companions, and then I plunged in. Now or never.



We had to slide in on our backsides. Within two seconds I was muddier than I can ever remember being, even as a child. What the hell, mud is good for the skin, and at my age, I need all the help I can get.

The opening to the cave is man-made, an ancient souterain, or underground passage way built during Medieval times. It has a lintel, made from a re-purposed Ogham stone, and neat dry-stone walls. Apparently, it was once covered with a mound, but this was removed in the 1930s when a road was built through it. The souterain and cave reach right under the road towards the mound at Cruachan.

Sharp turn to the left, and the man-made walls give way to damp cave walls. Down an uneven tunnel that’s only big enough to crawl through. I had no torch, but managed to pause to take a few photos. Mud is not only good for the skin, I discovered; it also helps you slide down narrow passages more easily. At this point, I felt my lungs being compressed by the narrow space, the heavy darkness, and the weight of the land pressing down from above. But there was no going back; the rest of the group were strung out behind me, and there was no way of getting past them.

Down, down, down. The passage was now tall enough to stand, but still so narrow you could only pass through it in single file. I thought of Frodo and friends, and the Mines of Moria, and tried not to think about what befell them there.

Planning Your Visit to Ireland? Oweynagat. Are You Brave Enough to Enter 'the Hell-Mouth of Ireland'?

Because this cave has its own monsters, equally as terrifying. An ancient text calledย Cath Maige Mucrama (The Battle of Mag Mucrima) tells of a fearsome creature known as the Ellรฉn Trechand, a three-headed creature which emerged from the cave every Samhain and laid waste to the countryside until the poet Amergin killed it. It was accompanied by a host of goblins, and a flock of monstrous copper-red birds. Also, there were giant pigs which scarred the landscape by rooting through the earth with their huge tusks. No wonder it got its other name, ‘Hell-Mouth of Ireland’.

I think I might have preferred meeting any or all of the above in a dark cave rather than the Morrigan. She is the Great Queen, the Phantom Queen of ancient Ireland, multi shapeshifter, Queen of battle and strife and death. She was present in many of the major conflicts of mythological Ireland, foretelling victories and defeat, causing rains of fire and blood to fall upon the heads of her enemies, flying as a crow or raven over the battlefield, bringing courage to her men and striking fear into the hearts of the enemies with her wild calls.

Not a woman to be taken lightly. And this was her cave, her route from the Otherworld into ours. How would she feel about our trespassing?

Nor is she the only powerful woman associated with the cave. Queen Medb was said to have been born in it. Another woman who I suspect would look at a woman like me, and find me wanting.

But maybe they appreciate that women come in all shapes and sizes and temperaments. We’re not all born warriors and Queens, but we still have value. So I brazened it out.

When we had gone as deep into the cave as we could get, (a small hole at the top far end of the cave continues all the way to the Caves of Kesh in Sligo, 38kms away, according to legend) we turned the lights out. It was very dark, and very silent, save for our breathing. Occasionally, water dripped somewhere nearby, which sounded loud, and three times, strangely, I heard the distant call of some wild bird.

Treasa led us in a meditation and a few prayers. She said some things which really resonated with my own thoughts and feelings, which was nice. Then we did some toning.

O. M. G. If you’ve never tried it (I hadn’t), then you should. Maybe it was because we were deep underground in an extremely special place, but the sound reverberated off the walls and vibrated right through me. It was powerful and wonderful! You can find out what it sounds like HERE.

Even though it was pitch black, at one stage I saw lots of beautiful swirling purple-pink lights, and Treasa saw them too. And then, suddenly I felt really tense, and I heard Treasa say, “She’s here.” After a while, I got the strange feeling that someone was in front of me, looking into my face, but there was no one there. Or at least, not physically. It reminded me of inspection when I was in the Air Force, where the sergeant will get right in your face and you’re not supposed to react or even flinch. It was really uncomfortable. And then she passed by, and I relaxed. I think I passed muster. โ˜บ

There was a good bit of chat and laughter, too. Eventually, we reluctantly realised it was time to leave. On the way out, I saw the lintel stone with the Ogham markings, ‘Fraech, son of Medb’. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a clear photo, but you can just make them out. Then, I was greeted by fresh air and a beautiful sunset. I was back on the surface again.



We stopped in Tulsk for coffee, and to try and clean off the worst of the mud. Then it was dark, and time to say goodbye to my new friends and head home.

It had been a magical day. I felt extraordinarily happy. I’m still buzzing now, as I write this. I drove home, listening to Kate Bush… how is it that so many of her lyrics seemed to relate to what I had just experienced? But the day kept on giving. The full moon hung heavy and low in the sky, like a huge disk of gold, watching me safely home. And when I arrived, the sky was clear and laden with stars. My heart was full. The day had been rich with gifts.



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27 Comments on “Gifts from the ‘Hell-Mouth of Ireland’ #Samhain

  1. Pingback: Inside the ‘Hell-Mouth’ of Ireland (video) | Smorgasbord Blog Magazine

  2. Pingback: Inside the ‘Hell-Mouth’ of Ireland (video) | aliisaacstoryteller

  3. Pingback: Planning Your Visit to Ireland? Tour 4 Strange and Spooky Sites Associated with #Samhain | aliisaacstoryteller

  4. Pingback: Gifts from the Hellmouth of Ireland #Samhain | homethoughtsfromabroad626

    • Well, strangely, very up and down, Lawrence. I took my son shopping for his birthday today in Dublin, went to Blanchardstown shopping centre, it was such a beautiful day with a clear blue sky and sunshine, and I felt very claustrophobic in there the whole time. Was so glad to get out into the open and the fresh air afterwards. But that was a response to the cave, not herself. I’ve been dreaming a lot, strange stuff that I can’t make sense of, which is unusual for me. I don’t think she made too much of me, but I think she accepted me, nonetheless. โ˜บ


  5. Oh, I rather you do this, than me, Ali. I would have immediately thought of the movie The Descent. Don’t watch it! But, well done to you for going underground and making such a wonderful experience out of it. It must have been incredible being in pitch darkness. We have a place called ‘Big Pit’ here in Wales. It’s underground and somewhere where they turn all the lights off as well. Have I done it? No! ๐Ÿ˜€

    Liked by 1 person

    • Haha! Don’t blame you, Hugh! Not so keen on the underground stuff myself either, but it was a challenge for me, which I’m glad I faced. Surface and fresh air for me from now on! ๐Ÿ˜

      Liked by 1 person

  6. This sounds like an awesome adventure! The Emerald Isle is on my list of places to see, and every time you share your travels, I check my travel plans (and bank account ๐Ÿ˜€ ). I’ll get there … someday!

    Liked by 1 person

    • You do? Wow, I am delighted if my posts help ignite your travel lusts! If its any consolation most of the places featured on my blog are free to visit. ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜€

      Liked by 1 person

  7. Gosh that’s incredible Ali. Far removed from the more commercial and touristy caves I’ve visited. Indeed the shades of the ancients must be shacked up there if at all. And I bet they love that toning thing ๐Ÿ™‚


    • It was quite spectacular, Roy. I would definitely go back, but I have no intention of becoming a caver… I love the light and the space and the wind in my face above ground too much. ๐Ÿ˜Š


    • Thanks Finola. I don’t know if I would have been brave enough to do it on my own. I’m very glad that I did it, though. I must drop by and see what you’ve been up to lately… I’ve had my head down, up to my ears in essays lately. ๐Ÿ˜

      Liked by 1 person

  8. Wow, that sounded like it was all about mud until you got to the toning. What an amazing experience that must have been. Sound is extremely powerful. I’m so glad you passed muster and were allowed to come back!! Ha ha. What a great post – Thanks!


    • Haha! Thanks Diana. It was an amazing experience. Ive never been claustraphobic, but I looked at some photos in advance of going, which made me feel anxious. I should never have done that! It was a challenge, but it was fun too. ๐Ÿ˜Š

      Liked by 1 person

  9. Wow, what a fascinating experience! Very spooky! I would never be a caver, but I’m glad some people are!


    • I would never be a caver, either. I only went in this one because of the mythology and associations with the Morrigan and Medb and Samhain, and also I had an excellent guide in Treasa. I likethe space and light of the surface too much! Hugs to you! ๐Ÿ˜Š


  10. Wow, that sounds like it was quite an experience, Ali. My daughter wanted me to join her on a guided tour of some local caves for her birthday. So I went to their website to find out more. When I read that you had to crawl on your belly through a passageway just big enough to fit through, then walk through water that was 3 feet deep in the dark, I told her we would have to do something else. Above ground. In the light. With no bats… ๐Ÿ™‚ Good for you for braving the tour!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Haha! Absolutely right, Rachele. Above ground is my preferred habitat. I actually dont mind bats. Small ones, viewed from a distance… ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ

      Liked by 1 person

  11. Crikey, Ali. That was really good. If I’d heard Treasa say “She’s here”, If my pants weren’t wet from getting into the cave, they would have been after hearing that statement a long way from the entrance and no way of outrunning a three-legged horse to get out. Good for you for going in.

    Liked by 1 person

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